Knitted Hot Water
Bottle Cover
You
will need: -
5mm
knitting needles
DK
or chunky yarn
Contrast
yarn or ribbon for the tie and edging
Large
blunt needle to sew up
4
buttons
To
fit a hot water bottle – 8” / 20cm x 13” / 33cm
·
You
can use either Double Knitting or Chunky weight yarn for this project. If using Double Knitting – use 2 strands
together throughout the project – if using Chunky – use 1 strand only.
·
If
you need a slightly bigger size cover – use 6mm or 6.5mm knitting needles (this
will take a bit more yarn).
Method - front piece
With
5mm knitting needles and main colour yarn, cast on 19 stitches.
Row
1: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
2: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row 3: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
knit 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (21 stitches).
Row 4: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
purl 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (23 stitches).
Row 5: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
knit 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (25 stitches).
Row 6: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to
last stitch, knit 1.
Row 7: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
purl 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (27 stitches).
Row
8: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
9: knit into the front and then into the back of the first stitch, *(knit 1,
purl 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 1, knit into the front and
then into the back of the last stitch.
(29 stitches).
Row
10: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
Row
11: knit into the front and then into the back of the first stitch, *(purl 1,
knit 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, purl 1, knit into the front and
then into the back of the last stitch.
(31 stitches).
Row
12: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to
last stitch, purl 1.
Repeat
row 12: until you have worked a TOTAL of 55 rows.
Row
56: shape shoulders – knit 2 together, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to
last 3 stitches, purl 1, knit 2 together.
(29 stitches).
Row
57: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
Row
58: purl 2 together, *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit
1, purl 2 together. (27 stitches).
Row
59: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
60: knit 2 together, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last 3 stitches, purl
1, knit 2 together. (25 stitches).
Row
61: purl 2 together, *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit
1, purl 2 together. (23 stitches).
Row
62: knit 2 together, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last 3 stitches, purl
1, knit 2 together. (21 stitches).
Row
63: cast off 3 stitches, *(knit 1, purl 1) - repeat from * to last stitch, knit
1. (18 stitches.)
Row
64: cast off 3 stitches, *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to end of row. (15 stitches).
Row
65: knit 2 together, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last 3 stitches, purl
1, knit 2 together. (13 stitches)
Row
66: eyelet row – knit 1, purl 1, keeping the yarn at the front of the needle,
take the yarn over the top of the needle and knit 2 together, *(bring the yarn
to the front under the needle, take the yarn over the top of the needle and
knit 2 together) – repeat to the last stitch, knit 1. (You should still have 13 stitches.)
Row
67: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
68: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
69: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
70: knit into the front and then into the back of the first stitch, *(knit 1,
purl 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 1, knit into the front and
then into the back of the last stitch.
(15 stitches).
Row
71: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
Row
72: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
Row
73: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
Row
74: knit into the front and then into the back of the first stitch, *(purl 1,
knit 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, purl 1, knit into the front and
then into the back of the last stitch.
(17 stitches).
Row
75: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Work
6 more rows like row 75.
Cast
off.
Back piece – buttonhole
section
With
5mm knitting needles and main colour yarn, cast on 31 stitches.
Row
1: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
work
3 more rows like row 1.
Row
5: buttonhole row – purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, bring the yarn to the front
of the work under the needle, take the yarn over the top of the needle and knit
2 together - 1 button hole
purl
1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, keeping the yarn at the front of the needle,
take the yarn over the top of the needle and knit 2 together - 2 button hole
knit
1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, bring the yarn to the front under the
needle, take the yarn over the top of the needle and knit 2 together - 3 button
hole
purl
1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, keeping the yarn at the front of the needle,
take the yarn over the top of the needle and knit 2 together - 4 button hole
knit
1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.
Row
6: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Work
12 more rows like row 6.
Row 27: shape shoulders - starting at row 56:
of the front section, work the top shaping in the same way.
Back piece – lower
section.
With
5mm knitting needles and main colour yarn, cast on 19 stitches.
Row
1: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
2: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row 3: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
knit 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (21 stitches).
Row 4: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
purl 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (23 stitches).
Row 5: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
knit 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (25 stitches).
Row 6: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to
last stitch, knit 1.
Row 7: knit into the front and then into the
back of the first stitch, *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches,
purl 1, knit into the front and then into the back of the last stitch. (27 stitches).
Row
8: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1.
Row
9: knit into the front and then into the back of the first stitch, *(knit 1,
purl 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit 1, knit into the front and
then into the back of the last stitch.
(29 stitches).
Row
10: *(knit 1, purl 1) – repeat from * to last stitch, knit 1.
Row
11: knit into the front and then into the back of the first stitch, *(purl 1,
knit 1) – repeat from * to last 2 stitches, purl 1, knit into the front and
then into the back of the last stitch.
(31 stitches).
Row
12: *(purl 1, knit 1) – repeat from * to
last stitch, purl 1.
Repeat
row 12: until you have worked 35 rows more
cast
off.
To make a cord
With
5mm knitting needles and contrast colour yarn, cast on 3 stitches.
knit
across row – do not turn the work – keeping the needles in the same hands slip
the stitches back onto the left hand needle – knit all stitches. Continue knitting the stitches and slipping
the work back onto the other needle until you have the length you require. You don’t have to pull the yarn hard or do
anything else – the work will naturally turn back on its self and make a cord. You can use 2/3/4/5/ stitches to make
different thickness cords. (called an ‘I
cord’).
To
make up
lay
the back piece flat – lay the bottom front section on the top – make sure that
the curves match all the way round. Use
the main colour yarn and sew right on the very edges of the knitting to join
the two sections together. Do NOT sew
across the very top where the bottle stopper will be. Lay the top section over the work – make sure
the top shaping matches exactly and join the top to the base. Leave a gap at the sides of the eyelet row to
thread the tie through. Sew the buttons
in place under the button holes. Thread
the tie through the eyelet row. Insert
the bottle.
Take
a step further
·
you
can add blanket stitch all round the edges – or just the top.
·
you
can sew a ribbon all around the edge and use a ribbon for the tie.
·
crochet
a flower – or cut one from felt and add to the cover
·
You
can add any decoration you wish – just remember not to use anything metal as it
will get hot!
* I use Robin
100% acrylic Double Knitting yarn for all my knitting. If you use a natural or a wool mix yarn you
will need more.
Disclaimer:
This is my own original work. Use it for
your own personal use only, please do not resell the pattern as your own
workings.
The Kitten and The Goat
9, New Shambles, Kendal,
LA9 4TS
www.princesskitten.co.uk
Love
kitten
www.princesskitten.co.uk
www.thekittenandthegoat.co.uk
kittenandgoat@gmail.com
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